Please find for discussion suggested designs for Residential Sprinklers in Ordinary Hazard Group 1 Attics.
And the question is????
What kind of sprinklers are the blue ones???
The blue ones are shown in a detail they are dry pendants to sprinkler the perimeter of the building. I hope these measures help such as what happened in Edmonton Alberta Canada and suburbs of Los Angeles. When fires devasted whole suburbs.
That is kind of where I thought you were going.
But depending on where the installation is in the world, any wet pipe has to be maintained to 40 degrees F.
Plus, to me if the fire is that close to activate a sprinkler, especially the ones in the actual attic, the house will still burn to the ground.
If there is fire in the attic, there is a problem.
People just have to stop building wood houses surrounded by trees, grass and brush, plus build them out of materials that resist fire,,,
Maybe go Florida and make them out of concrete???????? Just an idea.
The design is for a dry system which can be installed in any climate. I am trying to illustrate sprinkler locations to be installed as close to the roof ceiling as possible to protect fires starting on the roof and avoid sprinkler obstructions such as the roof trusses. My thoughts on the design area to be protected may need to calculate such for sprinklers installed in over hangs over four feet and the sprinkler line adjacent feeding them. I have tried to illustrate the pipe routes to drain all back to the mechanical room. In effect what I am trying to do is build a fire curtain around the perimeter of the building structure. With the proper hydraulic calculations and defined hazard to be protected this should work such as putting fire sprinklers underneath a wood framed pier which is more highly combustible then what we are trying to achieve here.
As for the attic, in my opinion, non engineer or design,
If the sprinklers are actually in the attic space, for them to activate, it would have to get to the temp of the sprinkler, meaning either fire or heat in that area, and to me by that time it is to late.
As far as the outside eave sprinklers, about the same, fire gets close enough to activate them, more than likely it is going to take out the house.
Plus I think the fire would overwhelm the system, open to many sprinklers, and either lose pressure or water supply.
Were you proposing the attic and eave to be dry??
Not trying to shoot your idea down, but real world, there are a lot of variables to take into account with your design.
Do you happen to live in California ????
In a light hazard occupancy the norm is for two sprinklers to go off to put out the fire. Off the top of my head I cannot recall how many sprinklers go off in an ordinary hazard design area. Please explain to me how a fire gets out of control in a sprinklered building. The only way a fire in a sprinklered building can get out of control is the intial way it was started such as an explosian such as what happened to the twin towers in New York. Have you ever installed a deluge system, with the proper designs and hydraulic calculations starting with a city pump and then their on to a fire pump are you honestly going to tell people what I have shown will not work. Are you aware of what a fire does to concrete. Some one down the line mentioned build with concrete. Concrete that has gone threw a fire cannot be rebuild on and is a pain to have it removed. Concrete Walls are very difficult to work with as rated door frames need to be installed at the forming levels. If mistakes are mad have fun fixing them .
"""""The design is for a dry system which can be installed in any climate. I am trying to illustrate sprinkler locations to be installed as close to the roof ceiling as possible to protect fires starting on the roof and avoid sprinkler obstructions such as the roof trusses. My thoughts on the design area to be protected may need to calculate such for sprinklers installed in over hangs over four feet and the sprinkler line adjacent feeding them. """
To me it is a different fire attack, than one either actually starting in an attic area, vs a fire attacking the house and attic from the exterior.
As far as concrete, if made out of normal wood, might as well bring in the bull dozer also. I would take concrete over wood, when designing to protect against wild land fire,
When there are fires like this or even less burning, Not sure much will help, except a 747 air drop,,,
Here you go, I have not read it::
very interesting data you are sharing. The biggest problem I can forsee is the water supply for such a long duration
Plus I still would say the fire will overwhelm the system and not do any good.
It would have to be a big explosion for it to get out of hand or go for 8 hours
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Fire spreads from the wildland/ tree area to residential and they are gone in no time
Less than six minutes:::
OHHH I am not an engineer, so you can discount my reply if you want, and I cannot do math.
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